A Day In Waingapu, East Sumba, Indonesia

The Indonesian island of Sumba sits an hour by dodgy flight East of Bali and is a place where the widespread practice of chewing beetle nut means nothing happens in a hurry.   Aside from a few missionaries and a handful of surfers not many make it across to this part of Indonesia.  Waingapu is the capital ‘city’ on the East Coast of the Island.

The chewing of beetle nut, fairly common across parts of Indonesia, is described in a local tourist guide as being “both a peacekeeper and energy driver.  You will keep quiet enjoying the chewing, having more energy to work, just like any other addicting substances”.

In reality it gives just a bit of a high and the constant use of it leads to ‘the Sumba smile’ a red mouth with no, or black, teeth. The streets here are checkered with the dark red spit of beetle nut chewers.  As for the energy to work that certainly seems questionable.

The market here is worth a look, and the city is a good jump off point for exploring the surrounding villages and to arrange transport across the Island. ‘City’ is a bit loose.  It’s really just a few streets on which business seems to grind to a halt over the weekends.

At the markets there’s no DVD’s or fake t-shirts, but some worthy local artifacts , many of which have been lifted from the tombs across the island.  The local dress called ‘Ikat’, which is worn around the waist are freely available, as are coins and odds and ends from the Dutch era.  I bought a silver coin from an old fella that’s dated to 1853 (for 5AUD),  exciting for a history geek.  I would question its authenticity if there were actually any industry in the region capable of producing it.

I was only in town for a few days and that was enough.  There is really nothing much to do.  Local meals cost around 7,000 Rp (.90 cents Aussie) and a room at the well known Merlin hotel will set you back between 80,000-100,000Rp (10AUD).

Travelling the rest of the island was an adventure that ended up at some of the most incredible and isolated beaches and villages I’ve ever seen, complete with stories of head hunters and black magic. It’s not your average beach side paradise.

Flights to Sumba from Bali with either Mirpati or Batavia Air “Trust us to fly” are around 90 dollars each way from Bali and can be booked through agencies in Kuta.  Schedules change, flights are canceled and delayed regularly.  You need some flexi time to travel this region.

Category: Ed's Travel Blog, Indonesia/Bali, Off Track Travel, Travel Blog